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Submitted on
January 13, 2008
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Make
NIKON CORPORATION
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NIKON D100
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10/800 second
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F/25.0
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102 mm
Date Taken
Sep 23, 2007, 2:49:12 PM
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Heavy mongol archer by sabiss Heavy mongol archer by sabiss
In another style, for the archer's competition of this year's Blain medieval faire:

-gambeson (3kg)
-lamellar armour (15kg)
-mongol bow, arrows (1.2kg)
-short sword (1kg)

Total: 20.2kg

I was the only mad guy participating in armour... 4 hours of archery under the sun, I WAS tired after that!
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:iconalfrov:
Alfrov Featured By Owner Jul 2, 2013
Dude, that's badass.
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:iconookamicloud:
OokamiCloud Featured By Owner Jan 16, 2013
wow, awesome, I want a costume like that :D
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:icontheswordbrush:
theSwordBrush Featured By Owner Sep 30, 2011
Веселят меня такие парни-реконструкторы в КУЯГах по колено и ниже...Реконструкция всадника БЕЗ лошади...Я плачу просто =)
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:iconcaradepato:
Caradepato Featured By Owner Jun 29, 2011
Awesome. Just... Awesome.
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:iconsabiss:
sabiss Featured By Owner Jun 29, 2011
Thanks! I improved the armour and equipment since...
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:iconcaradepato:
Caradepato Featured By Owner Jun 30, 2011
What materials do you use? I am trying to make a rus-style lammelar set with cour boulli or however you spell that, and do you have any reccomendations?
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:iconsabiss:
sabiss Featured By Owner Jun 30, 2011
My armor is of steel, laced with leather.

If you're making a Rus lamellar in cuir bouilli, I recommend the following:

Cut your plates and drill the holes before you "boil" them. When you boil them, I recommend wax or animal glue or a gelatin-water mix. It will harden the plates much better than water.
If you use wax, it'll make your plates waterproof, but waxy to the touch and make a sort of glossy surface.
glue or gelatin will harden the plates even more, and they'll keep their natural leather color, although in a darker tone. It'll also be easier to tint or mark with engraving tools if you use glue. On the other hand, they'll be water sensitive, and might become sticky if they're wet. I recommend lacquering them or waxing them afterwards, or simply greasing them.

Also, in any case, you should not "boil" them at more than 60°Celsius. 40°C would be even better if using glue/gelatin. It's more of a soaking than a boiling. If you go beyond that temperature, the leather will shrink too much and will also become very brittle, like an old crumble left on the kitchen table for a week :)
The leather should be thick (4mm cow or pig), vegetable tanned leather (not chrome tanned).
Also, as you "boil" the leather, it will shrink a little. Keep that in mind when you cut out your plates and bore the holes in the "raw" leather.

For lacing, natural leather laces should do fine. If you used metal plates, then I would recommend something sturdier, like rawhide or silk laces (if you can afford it). The metal plates being mobile, they tend to cut the lacings, like a pair of scissor blades.

I hope this helps. Good luck with your project.
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:iconcaradepato:
Caradepato Featured By Owner Jun 30, 2011
Thank you. Ill post it up once ive finished
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:icondrewthefan123:
drewthefan123 Featured By Owner Mar 8, 2011
Dude, where did you find that Mongol bow??? Is it functional?
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:iconsabiss:
sabiss Featured By Owner Mar 8, 2011
Hey!

I got the bow from an Hungarian bowyer, his name is Csaba Grozer, his website:
[link]

There is another hungarian bowyer who is also very well reknowned for his recurve bows: Lajos Kassai:
[link]

They both do modern bows with a recurve look, and also real wood/horn/sinew bows (but way more expensive), all are functional. I regularly shoot with mine.

I am also in the process of making my own wood/horn/sinew bow... We'll see if I can come up with something! :-)
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